Camino Frances: The Basics

Have you ever gone on a trip and come back knowing you'll never experience anything like it again? Well, that's what the Camino was like for me. 

And it was totally unexpected, mainly because I went in with limited preparations that led to no expectations. Not only did it introduce me to a whole new type of travel, but it also gave me the privilege of meeting the coolest people from across the world. The Camino was exactly what I needed even though I didn't know it at the time.

What the heck is the Camino de Santiago?

A month prior to boarding my flight for Paris I would not have been able to answer this question because I had never heard of it before. But as fate would have it, two people mentioned the infamous Camino Frances in the span of two weeks after I had come back from New Zealand. Coincidence? I think not. It was exactly what I needed at the time, and the best part was I had enough time off that I could do it. Now I should start by saying the Camino de Santiago is not just one route, it's many. Each pilgrim can choose their preferred Camino based on their available time and physical fitness.

Basically the Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage (walk) that ends in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The one I chose was the Camino Frances, the most popular route out of all of the Camino options (and there are many). It's 500 miles and typically starts in St. Jean Pied-de-Port, France. On average it takes about 35 days, with 2ish rest days built in. For me it took 34 days with one rest day, but luckily I didn't have any walk-inhibiting blisters/injuries like some people did. It averaged out to 15-20 miles per day. This route is also called "The Way of Saint James" because, as the name implies, it most closely follows the route that Saint James took way back when.

So who did you go with?

Myself. And that's the beauty of it. I hadn't previously traveled much on my own, but the Camino is different. There are thousands of people that start the Camino Frances each day so you're bound to meet people. And I was even luckier to have met my go-to-pal on day 1! Her name is Carly (a.k.a Carl, Carby, Carb). As the days ticked on I would add to this crew and develop what is commonly referred to as a Camino Family. Instead of turning this post into a prolonged love note to them, I made a separate adoration post here.

Where did you stay?

Today, there are more "modern" places to stay than where Saint James would've stayed. They're called albergues, essentially the equivalent to a hostel. There are typically several in each town you walk through, allowing all pilgrims to create their journey on the fly. No reservations are required, though some people choose to call ahead. My modus operandi, like most, was to fly by the seat of my pants and hope that there would be a bed when I got to my intended destination. Only one time did Carly and I have to taxi ahead to find lodging and then taxi back the following morning. Albergues vary from being free (a.k.a. donation based) to being around 15 euros and this typically correlates to the cleanliness and comfort, though that's not always the case. As you walk you usually hear about the best place and you aim to get there early enough to get a spot. When you arrive you must show your official Credential (I got mine in St. Jean Pied de Port). It's simply an "official" piece of paper that has spaces for stamps that you must get each night to stay in a municipal hostel, which tend to be the cheapest option in each town.

A bed sounds cheap, but what about everything else?

Everyone's Camino and needs are different. Some people choose the more expensive and "luxury" option to have hotels booked ahead (typically the retired crowd), but this often leads to being too rigid and injuries can always arise that alter plans. Others go the bare bones route and choose to camp (though not always legal). I would say I was the average pilgrim that stayed in albergues and spent around 40 euro per day. This made my expenses close to 1600 euro for 40 days. Really you're just spending your money on food and drinks, which are all extremely inexpensive. Speaking of food, the Camino is certainly not known for it's fine dining but there are some typical items like tortilla (kind of like a quiche) and chocolate croissants that I tended to have almost every day.

Did you follow Google Maps?

Nope - I followed the shells, of course! The wonderful thing about the Camino Frances is that it's extremely well marked. The official symbol of the Camino (along with the arrow) can be found often and indicates you're walking the right way. Only once did Carly and I take a wrong turn, but were stopped by a local who pointed out our error. The backpacks with tied on shells are an easy giveaway to locals, and luckily they are extremely nice and willing to help.

500 miles of walking sounds...

Long? Crazy? Un-vacation-like? Well, wrong on all counts! First, it absolutely flew by. It went by so fast that a group of us continued an additional 3 days to Fisterra after Santiago. Fisterra is known as the end of the world and you're supposed to swim in the ocean to "cleanse yourself" when you arrive - naturally we did just that...and it was COLD! For each person the Camino has a destination, both literally and metaphorically, and that lends itself to a sense of calm and purpose. You wake up (some earlier than others), pack your things, walk your miles for the day while stopping at a few cafes, find a bed, get dinner and drinks, and repeat. It sounds pretty monotonous, but really it's more therapeutic.

Do you carry everything with you?

Yes, well I did and most people do. You can also choose to send your bag ahead each day for 4 euro and a service will bring it to your intended destination. This helps if you have an injury or simply don't want to carry everything. If carrying your own bag, it's key to keep it light. I was built for success in this category because I do that anyway (I brought a small backpack for my 3 months in Australia, Asia and New Zealand). I had everything for the Camino in my Deuter 28L pack that I bought specifically for this trip. In it I had the typical items you'd see on any Camino packing list. The Camino is a highly trafficked area - if you forget something then you can easily buy it! I had to purchase some trekking poles, which were vital after the first downhill into Roncesvalles and my knees started killing me.

Would you do it again?

In a heartbeat! There's no doubt in my mind that I would do another Camino. My guess is a portion of the Camino Portuguese is next on the list, but who knows? All I know is I've got my Compostela framed in my living room and Credential stamped in my bedroom to remind me that there is always a home for me on the Camino.