Journey to the End of the World: Camino Frances in 34 Days

The day had finally come and I was "ready" to tackle the Camino Frances. After arriving in St. Jean Pied de Port, I checked into Auberge du Pelirin for the night and signed up for the group dinner and breakfast. That night included a church service and blessing for the pilgrims about to set off, a lovely dinner where I met my new friend Carly, and a questionable nights sleeping as I awaited the first steps on the long journey. I've already created two posts where I talk about Camino basics and my lovely Camino family. In this post I'll outline my route and some lessons I learned along The Way.
Lesson 1: Download the Camino de Santiago Guide app, or any similar app, to help you along The Way.

Day 1: SJPP to Roncesvalles (~15 miles)
Pilgrims start early, and by early I mean 6am or earlier. This first day was strenuous due to some serious Pyrenees hills, but had absolutely stunning scenery.


We were one of the last ones to get a bed in the Roncesvalles municipal hostel even though we arrived at 2:30pm and they have over 180 beds.
Lesson 2: Invest in walking poles. Day 1 killed my knees and I wasn't expecting it.

Day 2: Roncesvalles to Larrasoana (~17 miles)
This was a miserable rainy and 45 degree day. As we drudged along we attempted to find an albergue, but to no avail. We ended up meeting another lady and taking a taxi into Burlada to stay at a hotel with some extra comfort. Then we taxied back the next morning.
Lesson 3: Beds fill up fast in the beginning of the Camino, consider calling ahead or be prepared to taxi.

Day 3: Larrasoana to Cizur Menor (~12.5 miles)
Most people stop this day in Pamplona, but we had walked a bit extra the day before so decided to keep going to the smaller stop following the city.



Day 4: Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina (~11.6 miles)
This was where we saw this highly-pictured area which would normally have excellent views, but it was overcast and rainy that day.

Day 5: Puente La Reina to Estella (~13.5 miles)

Day 6: Estella to Los Arcos (~15 miles)
Get ready for a bright and early wine tasting. And it's free! There was a wine fountain that you simply filled up whatever you wanted and were on your way.



Day 7: Los Arcos to Logrono (~17 miles)

Day 8: Logrono to Najara (~21 miles)
This was a LONG walking day. Once we arrived we enjoyed some drinks and slept in the municipal hostel (never again at this one).
Albergue Tip 1: Try to avoid Albergue de Najera - there are 80 people in a single room!

Day 9: Najara to Santo Domingo (~13 miles)
Our albergue had a solid crew and we made a team dinner of salad, pasta, chicken and potatoes.
Lesson 4: Pilgrim meals get tiring. Make your own or eat out in big cities when you can.

Day 10: Santo Domingo to Belorado (~14 miles)

Day 11: Belorado to Ages (~19 miles)
Albergue Tip 2: It's always nice to have people who get an early start and are willing to get you a bed.

Day 12: Ages to Burgos (~16 miles)
Burgos is a lovely city with a beautiful cathedral and many dining options.
Albergue Tip 3: Have a rest day in Burgos and stay in Apartment Turistico!

Day 13: Burgos Rest Day! Enjoyed my book at a cafe.

Day 14: Burgos to Hornillos (~13 miles)
Had a lovely lunch at Green Tree Cafe.
Albergue Tip 4: Stay at Meeting Point Albergue to enjoy some excellent paella and wine.

Day 15: Hornillos to Castrojeriz (~12.5 miles)

Day 16: Castrojeriz to Fromista (~15.5 miles)

Day 17: Fromista to Carrion de los Condes (~12 miles)

Day 18: Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de Templarios (~18 miles)
Was a long stretch in the beginning but there were food carts.
Albergue Tip 5: Laundry, a burger, beers, salad and rest. Stay at Jaques de Molay - very cute and decent food.

Day 19: Terradillos de templarios to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos (~18 miles)
Albergue Tip 6: Albergue via Trajana is amazing! There are four beds in a room and you get clean sheets and a towel.

Day 20: Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos to Puente Villarente (~20 miles)
The first 18km is a big old stretch of nothingness. Then it splits off - I headed to Puente Villarente to grab food (other way was more open nothingness) for the last 12km.
Albergue Tip 7: Stay at Albergue San Pelaya. It's not a main stop town so there are fewer people and it's nice and quiet.

Day 21: Puente Villarente to Leon (~7 miles)
Lesson 5: Leon is a lovely city with more food options - take advantage of them!
Albergue Tip 8: Stay at Globetrotter Hostel - great and only 15euro, was clean and each bed had a privacy curtain.

Day 22: Leon to Hospital de Orbigo (~15 miles)

Albergue Tip 9: Stay at Albergue Verde - it had a hippy vibe and a great evening donativo meal.

Day 23: Hospital do Orbigo to Astorga (~12.5 miles)

Really liked Astorga!

Albergue Tip 10: Siervas de Maria was clean and comfortable. They were even considerate enough to put us in a young people room so there was less snoring.

Day 24: Astorga to Foncebadon (~16 miles)

A nice walk and the town had a great pizza place - it's hard to miss.

Albergue Tip 11: Don't stay at Monte Irago - not great and staff was rude. Someone waited in their sleeping bag for several hours to get laundry back.

Day 25: Foncebadon to Ponferrada (~16.5 miles)
This day walked us through the highest point on the entire Camino.

Day 26: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (~14.5 miles)

A lovely walk through grape vineyards with some hills involved.

Albergue Tip 12: Albergue de la Piedra - clean and only 3 in a room!



Day 27: Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (~19 miles)
Was a steep section today through a lot of cute villages close together.
Albergue Tip 13: Albergue du Cebreiro was fine but had amazing views. FYI the showers didn't have a curtain or door.

Day 28: O Cebreiro to Triacastela (~14 miles)
Was a lovely walk with a few random up hills. But mostly down hill.
Albergue Tip 14: Albergue Berce do Camino was clean and comfortable.

Day 29: Triacastela to Sarria (~13 miles)
Walked up and down the hills. Herded some cows. Met a goat. Got Chinese wigs. Ate a delicious Thai bowl. Enjoyed the sun on the roof.
Albergue Tip 15: Alberguedon Alvaro was nice and had great outdoor space.

Day 30: Sarria to Portomarin (~15 miles)
Bar crawl today! Was so fun and we made 5 stops along the way. Walked passed the 100km mark! Was a lovely walk through woods and streets. Up hill to Portomarin.
Albergue Tip 16: Albergue Portosantiago was clean and had a nice outdoor space.



Day 31: Portomarin to Palas de REI (~17 miles)
Albergue Tip 17: Albergue Zenoira was fancy with pods and a nice living area. Would stay here again but it's a bit out of the way.

Day 32: Palas de REI to arzua (~20 miles)
This was a long walking day with rolling hills.
Albergue Tip 18: Albergue Los Caminantes Arzua - nice and not crowded. Lady was very nice.

Day 33: Arzua to Lavacolla (~20 miles)
Albergue Tip 19: Albergue Lavacolla was convenient to airport and clean, ordered pizza and pasta takeout.

Day 34: Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela!!! (~6 miles)
A quick walk in the morning led us into Santiago. It was raining off and on but we all made it and celebrated appropriately with beer, wine and g&ts later that night. The city is beautiful and it's an excellent "end" to this portion of my Camino journey. But we wanted more, so we continued to the coast and I'd highly recommend it.






Extension Day 1: Santiago to A Pena (~17 miles)

Extension Day 2: A Pena to Olveira (~14.5 miles)





Extension Day 3: Olveira to Fisterra (~17 miles)
This day we made it to the end of the world. We were told that if you swim in the ocean when you get here that it cleanses you and gives you a fresh start. So we did and it was cold!
Albergue Tip 20: Stay at Albergue Oceanus Finisterre. It had pods and was clean and walking distance to a delicious and fun place called The World Family.

We achieved kilometer marker 0.000 the next morning after walking a short distance up to the lighthouse. For those wanting to continue the journey to another 0.000 marker you can also walk to Muxia. We decided to bus there, and it was a welcome journey that took 1/10 of the time.